Friday, September 10, 2010

Nantes Carrot Stew

Never mind that September is usually the hottest month in Ojai, and never mind that the leaves don't turn much, and the storms don't roll through, and the air does not get that unmistakable flavor of autumn until much much later in the year (if it happens at all). Labor Day has passed, and in my book that means the start of fall, regardless of the weather.

To celebrate fall, one must have carrot stew. Keller calls for Nantes, and while those certainly would be ideal, I wouldn't let having delicious carrots of other varieties be an impediment to trying this recipe. Delicious is delicious, and Keller knows how to bring out the best in so many flavors, carrots especially. I love how simple and elegant this recipe is, while still feeling hearty. Welcome fall.

From Ad Hoc.

2 pounds sweet carrots, preferably Nantes

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

4 to 6 tablespoons (2 to 3 ounces) unsalted butter

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons dry sherry or Madeira

1 cup fresh carrot juice

Large pinch of Yellow Curry Powder (page 336) or Madras curry powder

Nantes carrots, which Tucker Taylor grows in the French Laundry garden, are a long cylindrical variety that’s about the same diameter from end to end. Cut into oblique shapes or lengthwise into what we call icicles, they’re small enough to stew quickly in carrot juice with a splash of sherry or Madeira and a sachet of coriander and caraway seeds, and they’re finished with a touch of curry powder. Combined with Asparagus Coins, they make a vivid dish, great with a flaky white fish such as cod or bass. They’d also be excellent with a rack of lamb or Cornish game hens. These can be cooked a day ahead, cooled in the liquid, and refrigerated. If you have a juicer, make your own carrot juice. The sauce will be thicker because of the natural starches in the juice, which store-bought carrot juice often lacks.

Peel the carrots and cut them into oblique shapes.

Make a sachet of the coriander and caraway seeds by wrapping them in a piece of cheesecloth and tying it with kitchen twine.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the carrots, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until the carrots begin to give off their juices, about 7 minutes. Lower the heat as necessary to keep the carrots from browning. Add the sherry and cook for 2 minutes. Add the carrot juice, curry powder, and sachet and cook, swirling the pan, for 2 more minutes, or until the carrots are just tender. (The carrots can be cooled and refrigerated in the liquid overnight.) With a slotted spoon, transfer the carrots to a bowl. Discard the sachet.

Simmer the carrot juice until reduced to a light glaze. Whisk in the remaining 2 to 4 tablespoons of butter, depending on your preference, 1 tablespoon at a time. Season to taste with salt, add the carrots, and swirl to glaze the carrots. Transfer to a serving bowl. SERVES 6

No comments:


Apples (1) Arugula (3) arugula flowers (1) Avocado (2) Basil (9) Beet Greens (3) Beets (15) Bell Pepper (1) Blood Orange (2) Bok Choy (6) Bread (1) broccoli (3) Brussels Sprouts (2) Butternut Squash (4) Cabbage (11) Cantaloupe (1) Carrots (16) Cauliflower (1) Celeriac (3) Celery (6) Celery Root (1) Chard (14) Cherry Tomatoes (4) Chinese Broccoli (1) Chocolate Mint (1) Cilantro (7) clilantro (1) Coffee (1) Collard Rapini (1) Collards (3) Corn (1) CSA Information (8) CSA Memberships (1) Cucumber (8) Daikon (1) Dandelion (6) Dill (10) Edible Flowers (1) Eggplant (6) Eggs (1) Endive (1) Escarole (4) FAQ (1) Farro (1) Fennel (11) Frisée (1) Garlic (6) Garlic Scape (1) Gold Beets (1) Grapefruit (1) Green Garlic (2) Hakarai Turnip Greens (1) Hal (1) Haul (230) jalapeno (2) Jalapeños (2) Juicing (1) Juniper Berries (1) Kaboucha (1) Kale (15) Kohlrabi (2) Komatsuna (2) Lacinato Kale (1) Leafy Greens (1) Leeks (5) Lettuce (5) Mint (3) Mustard Greens (1) Nettles (2) Newsletter (2) Onion (6) Onions (1) Orange (1) oregano (1) Outstanding in the Field (1) Pak Choi (1) Parsley (3) Pea Shoots (1) pepper (6) Poblano (1) poetry (1) Pollen (1) Pomegranate (1) Potatoes (4) Preserved Lemons (1) Press (1) Pumpkin (4) Purslane (2) Radicchio (4) Radish (3) Rapini (1) Red Peppers (2) Romaine (1) Romaine Lettuce (1) Rutabaga (1) Sage (2) Salad dressing (1) Seder (1) Sorrel (1) Spinach (8) Spring Onions (2) Squash Blossoms (3) Stock (1) Strawberries (1) sugar beets (1) Summer squash (3) Sweet Pea Shoots (1) tangerines (1) Thanksgiving (1) Tomatillos (2) Tomato (10) Tomatoes (5) tricky (1) Turnip Greens (2) Turnips (13) Volunteer (1) Watermelon (1) Winter Squash (2) Zucchini (15)

Blog Archive

Community Supported Agriculture

Support Locally Grown Food

There is plenty of gozo at Rio Gozo Farm. That is JOY in Spanish and joy is one of the most dependable products we have. Gozo is commonly found in gardens and farms. Once you get a little gozo up and going it is very tolerant of most pests, withstands dry periods, and grows with a modicum of fertilizer. After gozo becomes a staple of one's diet, it goes with about anything. Actually folks crave it so much it is a wonder everyone does not have a patch of it growing close at hand. Grab up some gozo and get with the flow.